A Bunnings, Mitre 10, or other hardware store will have you covered for most things; the Internet will get the rest. You’re going to need a decent diameter on your rope. This is a very thin plastic webbing; it is not something you want to get too close to a naked flame, because it will melt. I strongly suspect that if you get droplets of hot wax on it, that it will cause stiff melted crackly bits in your rope, and that’s just not going to be pleasant for either the person tying or the person being tied. Con: Stretches in inconsistent/unpredictable ways. Not recommended for suspension. However, as I examined it, I realized that I could probably remove the core. What was left wouldn’t be as strong, but it might very well be suitable for bedroom tying. It makes the experience of tying someone a lot more fun. Durability; Tossa Jute can take a lot of use before it begins to wear.
It has this really interesting feature; with the core removed, it actually sits quite flat on the skin, which is why I refer to it as webbing. This has multiple advantages; it spreads any pressure from the tie over a wider surface, and it doesn’t catch on things when you’re rolling around, struggling, what have you. There. End post. Your ties may not stay in exactly the same place as you put them, riding up or down, etc. It’s not particularly aesthetic.
Nylon is nicely smooth and comfortable as well, but it has very low tooth, so you need to use surgeon’s knots instead of square knots and any half-hitch style knot should be done three times instead of two. (If you don’t, your partner may be able to manipulate the tie and wriggle out, and rope bottoms kind of hate that. Which is fantastic! It’s always great to have some idea of exactly how much your rope can take. For our purposes though, what’s great about this bondage rope is the way it feels. Knowing they cannot escape tends to be part of what does it for them…). If, after practicing a while, you like rope bondage enough to invest more, then look at hemp or jute, processed to be soft. That doesn’t mean you can’t do it; it won’t catastrophically weaken your rope, but with successive washes I would start keeping a much closer eye on how much load I put on it. You need to dry it under tension, or it will shrink and thicken unevenly.
What type of rope is best for you? I have some recommendations above, under “What type of rope should I use? ”, but here are some qualtiies that will let you understand why I made those recommendations and let you better decide for yourself. “Natural Fiber” Ropes:. Cons:. Basically all the same cons as the one just above, with the addition of bulkier knots due to the increased thickness of it. Answered the whole question, just like that. And wasn’t it just frustrating as hell?
Can be either scratchy or soft, depending on the conditioning process. You can almost see the scratchiness. You can almost see the scratchiness. Cons:. Nylon is nicely smooth and comfortable as well, but it has very low tooth, so you need to use surgeon’s knots instead of square knots and any half-hitch style knot should be done three times instead of two. (If you don’t, your partner may be able to manipulate the tie and wriggle out, and rope bottoms kind of hate that. If you’ve benefited from or enjoyed what you’ve read, then please check out Rope Bondage The Smart Way, which answers every conceivable question for the beginner, shares my favorite ties and how to use them to best advantage. There are also tips on making uber sexy fun times happen, and real life examples and case studies of rope bondage fuelled awesomeness. That said, spending a bit of time breaking in your rope isn’t really that onerous. 5 millimetre tossa jute.